Posted by
ThomasDFaw on Sunday, November 16, 2008 2:46:24 AM
It was one of the world's first, greatest cities - a place
where astronomers mapped the stars millennia ago and kings created an
early code of law and planted what became known as the Hanging Gardens
of Babylon.
Yet
little remains of the ancient capital, as seen by The Associated Press
during a trip to Babylon last month on one of the few permits issued by
Iraq's government since the 2003 U.S.-led invasion. The site has the
aura of a theme park touched by the ambition of dictator Saddam Hussein
and the opportunism of looters: Modern walkways run beside crumbling
old walls, a reconstructed Greek theater and a palace built for Saddam
atop an artificial hill.
Now, for the first time,
global institutions led by the U.N. are thoroughly documenting the
damage and how to fix it. A UNESCO report due out early next year will
cite Saddam's construction but focus, at the Iraqi government's
request, on damage done by U.S. forces from April to September 2003,
and the Polish troops deployed there for more than a year
afterward.
The U.S., which turned Babylon into a
military base, says the looting would have been worse but for the
troops' presence. The U.S. also says it will help rehabilitate Babylon,
funding an effort by the World Monuments Fund and Iraq's State Board of
Antiquities and Heritage, but has yet to release precise funding
figures.
Archaeologists hope the effort will lead
someday to new digging to follow up on the excavations done by a German
team in the early 1900s.
"The site is tremendously
important," said Gaetano Palumbo of the New York City-based World
Monuments Fund. Yet in its present state, Babylon is "hardly
understandable, as a place where so much happened in
history."
Past excavations focused on the monuments
such as temples. But domestic quarters remain largely unexplored,
Palumbo said, and new methods could reveal new facts or reinterpret
findings from excavations done 100 years ago.
For
decades, Babylon has been virtually off-limits to the world whose
culture it helped create.
First came Saddam's attempt
to create a major tourist attraction aimed at glorifying his own image,
which led to shoddy reconstruction of ancient sites and construction of
restaurants and other facilities in the 1980s. Most international
experts stayed away because of the regime's reputation, the eight-year
war with Iran and U.N. sanctions.
Next, Babylon
suffered in the chaotic days after Saddam's downfall in 2003, at
roughly the same time that Baghdad's national museum was looted.
Archaeologists say looters took museum items at Babylon, mostly plaster
replicas, and burned excavation reports and other
studies.
Then came the occupation by U.S. and Polish
troops in 2003 and 2004. Heavy vehicles and machinery pounded on
ancient brick and on sand rich with pottery and other fragments.
Military forces built a helipad, carved out parking areas and trenches,
destroyed part of an ancient brick road called the Processional Way and
filled bags with sand containing bones and pottery pieces, according to
Iraqi officials and a British Museum report done several years
ago.
Even as Babylon was damaged, there has been no
extensive, large-scale archaeological work here in nearly a
century.
There is no trace of the Hanging Gardens,
said to have been built for the homesick wife of King Nebuchadnezzar
II, or the tower believed to have inspired the Bible's tale of Babel.
King Hammurabi's code of law, inscribed on a giant stone slab almost
4,000 years ago, has long sat in Paris' Louvre. The city's symbol - the
original Gate of Ishtar named for a Babylonian goddess and built by
Nebuchadnezzar - is Berlin's Pergamon museum.
At the
site, near the Euphrates River about 60 miles south of Baghdad, the AP
journalists saw a gaudy reconstruction of the Ishtar gate built during
Saddam's time, plus part of the original gate's foundations. The
foundations hold unglazed depictions of a dragon, some appearing
damaged.
A spell of relative peace in Iraq is giving
Babylon a second chance. However, tremendous challenges
remain.
There is still little security or
infrastructure at Babylon or at most of Iraq's 12,000 other
archaeological sites. Looting across Iraq appears to have eased, at
least temporarily, because of stricter international controls and
reports of a saturation in the illegal market in Iraqi artifacts,
according to archaeologists.
But the country has only
1,500 police who guard the sites to prevent looting. Many areas remain
too dangerous for visitors or scholars to travel, and some fear heavier
violence could resume, making any work a
target.
Although Iraq's government is involved in the
project, a top aide to Iraq's prime minister told the AP that the
government has more pressing priorities. And it could take years for
Babylon to get on UNESCO's list of World Heritage sites, a prestigious
designation Iraq can only seek after implementing conservation
codes.
John Curtis, keeper of the Middle East
collections at the British Museum and a contributor to the upcoming
UNESCO report, was one of the first to discover and document the
post-invasion damage to Babylon in December 2004. Four years later, he
says it's a great step that UNESCO is ready to sign off on a document,
but that infrastructure and stability will be key to any new
exploration.
"You need to have a large team," Curtis
said. "It would be a great mistake to rush into excavations without
appropriate resources at hand."